Summit Line

⏵ Training guide · Free

How to Power Hike and Use Trekking Poles in an Ultra

Power hiking is not giving up, it is pacing. On the flat, walking gets more efficient than running once you slow past roughly 12:30 to 13:00 per mile, and on a 4 to 15 percent climb you are usually better off hiking once running drops to about 18 to 19 minutes per mile or slower. Hike the steep climbs with an aggressive forward lean, short quick steps, and your hands driving on your thighs, and save your running legs for the flats and the descents. Trekking poles help most on steep, high-vert mountain courses (the metabolic payoff kicks in somewhere around a 15 to 26 percent grade). They do little on runnable ground, and they only work if you train with them first.

When to power hike instead of run

The whole skill comes down to one decision you make over and over: should I run this, or hike it? Physics makes the call, not pride. Below a certain speed, walking just costs less than running to cover the same ground, and that crossover comes at a faster pace the steeper the trail gets. On flat ground the walk-to-run transition sits around 12:46 per mile. On a 4 to 15 percent grade, CTS coaches put the switch point near an 18 to 19 minute mile or slower. Find the grade you are on, then let effort make the call, not ego.

⏵ Run or hike?

What to do at each grade

GradeDefaultWhy
0 to 4% (flat to gentle)RunAlmost always runnable. Hike only if you have slowed below roughly 12:30 to 13:00 per mile, where walking the same speed costs less.
4 to 8% (moderate climb)Run or hike by feelStay running if you can hold it at an easy effort. If your pace falls toward 18 to 19 min/mi or your breathing spikes, switch to a strong hike.
8 to 15% (steep climb)Mostly power-hikeFor most runners, hiking is as fast or faster here for far less cost. Strong climbers may still run the lower end early in a race.
15%+ (very steep)Power-hike (poles earn their keep)Running is rarely worth it. This is where poles start to pay off, and the metabolic case for them gets stronger as the grade climbs.

These are starting ranges, not laws. The cleanest way to make the call out on the trail is by effort and grade-adjusted pace, not the raw clock. See how to pace an ultra by effort and run your course through the grade-adjusted pace calculator.

How to power hike well

A good power hike is a deliberate, athletic move, not a tired shuffle. Done right, it is barely slower than a labored run up a steep grade, and it costs you a fraction as much. Here is the technique the coaches agree on.

Lean from the ankles, not the waist

Drive your whole torso forward as one piece, with the lean coming from your ankles and hips, not a hunched lower back. Keep your upper body stacked roughly over your feet so your weight helps push you up the hill instead of hanging out behind you. A collapsed, rounded posture chokes your breathing and kills your push.

Pair that with short, quick, constant steps instead of long lunges. Small steps keep your cadence up, save your hip flexors, and let you keep moving over rough ground. On a steep pitch, a relentless short stride beats the occasional big heave every time.

Put your hands on your thighs and push

On anything steep, put a hand on the matching thigh just above the knee, and as that leg straightens to push you up, press down with your arm to help. Your arms become a second engine that takes work off your quads, the same way poles would. Alternate left and right in rhythm with your steps.

Keep your eyes up to pick your line, breathe in time with your cadence, and relax your shoulders and jaw. Power hiking is about producing steady force, not white-knuckling the climb. The more relaxed and efficient it feels, the more you have left for the rest of the race.

Protect your quads on the way down

The flip side of climbing well is descending light. Run the downhills controlled, with a quick cadence and short steps, landing soft instead of slamming your heels and braking hard. The climbs are not what get you, the descents are. Bombing them early feels fast and free, but the bill comes due as trashed quads in the back half.

For the full picture of effort, grade, and how the climbs and descents reshape your pacing, read our guides on pacing by effort and training for vert. Time you save by reckless downhilling almost always gets paid back with interest later.

Are trekking poles worth it?

Poles are not a universal upgrade, they are a terrain-specific tool. The research is clear that they add oxygen cost on gentle grades and only get economical on steep ones (the crossover sits around a 26 percent grade, maybe as shallow as 15 percent). Coach Jason Koop has a rule of thumb for this: the more you plan to power-hike and the more total vertical a course has, the more poles help. Match them to the course, not the other way around.

⏵ Match the tool to the terrain

When poles earn their keep

Your coursePoles?
Mountain ultra with thousands of feet of steep vertWorth it. The more steep climbing, the bigger the payoff.
Long technical descents that beat up your quadsWorth it, if you practice. Poles add braking and stability points.
Rolling or runnable course with little steep gradeUsually skip. Below ~15 to 26% grade, poles tend to cost energy.
Flat, fast, or mostly road-like ultraSkip. They slow you on the runnable terrain that defines the race.
Race rules or required-gear listsCheck first. Some races restrict or require poles on certain sections.

If your race is a big mountain ultra, the poles are probably worth the weight. Building toward your first one? See how to prepare for your first 100 miler and our guide to training for elevation gain and vert.

Do poles actually save energy?

This is where the marketing and the science split, so let me be precise. Honestly, the answer is a little in raw energy, a lot in how hard the climb feels.

The raw energy savings are small but real

On gentle grades, poles actually raise your oxygen cost, because you are adding upper-body work to move at the same speed. They only get economical on steep terrain. CTS coach Jason Koop pegs that crossover near a 26 percent grade, though he notes it is fuzzy and could be as shallow as 15 percent or steeper. And here is the kicker: most famous ultra climbs sit below it. Hardrock’s Cunningham Gulch is about 25 percent, Western States’ Devil’s Thumb about 19 percent, and Hope Pass at Leadville around 18 percent.

When you do get steep enough, the savings are small. A 2019 field study by Giovanelli and colleagues found poles cut the energetic cost of very steep uphill walking by only a few percent at slopes above roughly 25 degrees. So if you are reaching for poles just to burn fewer calories, the math is underwhelming.

The real win is redistributing the effort

The bigger win is that poles split the work between your arms and legs, so the same climb feels a lot easier even when the oxygen cost is about the same. Research keeps showing poles lower how hard the effort feels more than they lower the actual cost. The climb feels easier, your legs take less of a beating, and in a multi-hour race that fresher set of legs is worth real time later.

Add stability on loose or technical ground, extra braking and balance on long descents, and somewhere to put some force when your quads are cooked, and you can see why poles are a fixture in big mountain races even though the calorie savings alone look small. Just remember the tradeoff. On the runnable terrain between climbs, they cost you, so stow them.

Choosing and sizing your poles

For most ultrarunners, lightweight folding (Z-style) poles are the sweet spot. They are stiff, packable, and fast to deploy or stow, which matters because you will be switching between hiking and running constantly. Carbon is lighter and stiffer. Aluminum is a touch heavier but less likely to snap on rocky courses, so go aluminum if you are hard on gear. Go with a cork or rubber grip (foam gets slippery with sweat) and a secure strap so the strap carries the load, not your hand.

⏵ Size to your height

Rough pole length by height

Your heightFlat-ground lengthLong descents
5'2" (157 cm)105 to 110 cm+5 to 10 cm
5'6" (168 cm)115 cm+5 to 10 cm
5'10" (178 cm)120 to 125 cm+5 to 10 cm
6'2" (188 cm)130 cm+5 to 10 cm

The check that beats any chart: hold the pole with the tip on the ground and your elbow should bend to roughly 90 degrees (about 0.68 to 0.70 of your height). Lengthen each pole 5 to 10 cm for long descents so you stay upright, and size down a touch if you are new to poles.

Using poles well, and training for it

Owning poles is not the same as using them. The runners who get a real return plant their poles to push, switch techniques to fit the terrain, and put in the practice weeks first.

Plant to push, in rhythm with your stride

On moderate climbs, use a diagonal rhythm: plant each pole with the opposite foot and push back and down through the strap so the force turns into propulsion, not just a lean. On very steep steps or obstacles, switch to a double-pole plant, both poles together, planted ahead or even on the next step, and drive with your whole upper body to lift yourself up and spare your legs.

On long descents, lengthen the poles a little and plant them ahead of you for braking and balance. And here is the thing that separates efficient pole users from the rest: stow your poles when the trail turns runnable, because below the steep grades they slow you down. Quick, clean deploy-and-stow is a skill worth drilling.

Train with poles for at least a month

Poles load your shoulders, lats, triceps, and core and change your stride mechanics, and your normal running prepares you for none of it. Going from zero to all-day poling on race day earns you blistered hands and wrecked arms by mid-race. Coaches say give it at least about four weeks of practice into a goal race so the movement is automatic and the upper-body strength is there.

Practice on the kind of climbs and descents you will race, rehearse the deploy-and-stow until it is reflexive, and dial in your strap and grip so your hands stay comfortable for hours. A little upper-body and core work pays off here too, and it dovetails with your durability training.

⏵ Know your hike-vs-run line before the gun

Knowing the theory is one thing. Knowing exactly where YOU should hike on YOUR course is another. Summit Line reads your actual fitness and your race profile, then builds a course-aware pacing and finish projection that shows the climbs you should hike, the effort to hold, and an hour-by-hour fueling plan to go with it. Train the power-hike, then race the line.

Keep reading

Power hiking and poles are one piece of racing the mountains well. Here is where to go next.

Power hiking and poles FAQ

When should I power hike instead of run?

Hike whenever hiking is as fast or faster than running but costs you less, and that line shows up sooner than you would think. On flat ground walking gets cheaper than running once your pace drops below roughly 12:30 to 13:00 per mile, which is the walk-to-run transition speed. On a climb that crossover comes at a faster pace. Coaches at CTS say that on a normal 4 to 15 percent grade, once you are down to running about 18 to 19 minutes per mile or slower, you are better off dropping to a strong hike. And the steeper and more technical it gets, the earlier you switch. The whole idea is to spend less to cover the same ground and bank your running legs for the flats and the descents.

What grade should I switch to hiking?

There is no magic number. It depends on your fitness and how technical the trail is. But the ranges are pretty clear. Below about 4 percent you should almost always run. From 4 to 8 percent it is a judgment call by effort, so run it if you can hold an easy effort and hike it if your pace or your breathing blows up. From 8 to 15 percent most runners are as fast or faster hiking, for a lot less cost. Above 15 percent, running is rarely worth it for anyone but the strongest climbers early in a race. Go by effort, not ego. If running the climb spikes your heart rate and barely saves you any time, hike.

What is good power-hiking technique?

Good power hiking is aggressive, not a stroll. Lean your whole torso forward from the ankles and hips (not by hunching your back), keep your upper body stacked roughly over your feet, and take short, quick, constant steps instead of long lunges. On the steeper stuff, put a hand on each thigh just above the knee and push down as that leg straightens. Your arms take some of the load off your quads, almost like built-in poles. Drive the push through your whole foot and keep your eyes up so you can pick a line. Done right, a strong power hike on a steep grade is barely slower than a labored run, and it costs you a fraction of the cardio.

Are trekking poles worth it for ultras?

It depends on the course. On steep mountain ultras with lots of vertical and long technical descents, poles are worth it. They add stability, share the load between your arms and legs, and save your legs for later. On rolling, runnable, or flat courses they usually are not, because below roughly a 15 to 26 percent grade poles tend to add energy cost instead of saving it, and they get in the way on the runnable ground that defines those races. Coach Jason Koop has a good rule of thumb here: the more you plan to power-hike and the more total vertical change a course has, the more poles help. Match the tool to the terrain.

How do I use poles efficiently?

Use poles in time with your stride and plant them to push, not just to lean on. On moderate climbs, alternate them with your opposite foot in a natural diagonal rhythm and push back and down through the strap so the force turns into propulsion. On very steep steps or obstacles, switch to a double-pole plant (both poles together, planted ahead or even on the next step) and push with your whole upper body. On long descents, lengthen the poles a little and plant them ahead of you for braking and balance. And stow them when the trail turns runnable so you are not paying the energy penalty on ground where they slow you down. Let the strap carry the load so you can keep a relaxed grip.

What kind of poles should I get?

For most ultrarunners, lightweight folding (Z-style) poles are the sweet spot. They are stiff, packable, and quick to deploy or stow, which matters a lot when you keep switching between hiking and running. Carbon poles are lighter and stiffer. Aluminum is a touch heavier but less likely to snap on gnarly, rocky courses, so go aluminum if you are hard on gear or racing technical terrain. Look for a comfortable grip (cork or rubber sheds sweat better than foam, which gets slippery) and a secure strap or glove system so the power transfers well. Fixed-length poles are the lightest and stiffest, but you carry them the whole time, so they suit experienced pole users who will use them constantly.

Should I train with poles?

Yes, and this is the step most people skip. Poles change your stride mechanics and load your shoulders, lats, triceps, and core in ways your running never does, so going from zero to all-day poling on race day is how you end up with shredded arms and blisters. Coaches say give it at least about four weeks of practice before a goal race so the movement feels automatic and you build the upper-body strength and skill to use poles for propulsion, stability, and downhill braking. Practice deploying and stowing them fast too, because fumbling your poles at every transition eats up the time they were supposed to save.

Do poles really save energy?

On the right terrain, modestly in pure energy and a lot in perceived effort. The metabolic crossover, where poles become more economical than no poles, sits somewhere around a 26 percent grade, though Koop notes it could be as shallow as 15 percent or steeper, and most famous ultra climbs are actually below that. Field research (Giovanelli and colleagues, 2019) found the energy savings on very steep grades are real but small, on the order of a few percent. The bigger effect is that poles let you split the work between your arms and legs, so the same climb feels substantially easier even when the raw oxygen cost is similar. That redistribution, plus the stability and quad protection, is why poles help in long mountain races even though the calorie savings alone look small.

This guide is for general training and planning, and it reflects expert-consensus ranges. It is not a substitute for personalized coaching or medical advice. Grade thresholds, pole sizing, and energy savings vary a lot from runner to runner and course to course, so treat the numbers here as starting ranges and adjust to your own body, your terrain, and how you recover. If you are new to running or have a health condition, check with a clinician before starting a big training block.